The 15th Sport Climbing World Championships will provide a preview of what to expect in Tokyo over 11 days through the 16th, at Innsbruck (AUT).
The competition includes Bouldering, Lead and Speed events, plus a Combined classification, which will be the event to be held at the 2020 Olympic Games. The finals schedule:
∙ 08 September: Women’s Lead
∙ 09 September: Men’s Lead
∙ 13 September: Men’s and Women’s Speed
∙ 14 September: Men’s Bouldering
∙ 15 September: Women’s Bouldering
∙ 16 September: Men’s and Women’s Combined
Sport Climbing World Championships are held every 0ther year; the medalists from 2016:
∙ Men’s Bouldering:
1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN)
2. Adam Ondra (CZE)
3. Manuel Comu (FRA)
∙ Men’s Lead:
1. Adam Ondra (CZE: 2nd title)
2. Jakob Schubert (AUT)
3. Gautier Supper (FRA)
∙ Men’s Speed:
1. Marcin Dzienski (POL)
2. Reza Alipour (IRI)
3. Aleksandr Shikov (RUS)
∙ Men’s Combined:
1. Sean McColl (CAN: 3rd title)
2. Manuel Comu (FRA)
3. David Firnenburg (GER)
∙ Women’s Bouldering:
1. Petra Klinger (SUI)
2. Miho Nonaka (JPN)
3. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN)
∙ Women’s Lead:
1. Janja Garnbret (SLO)
2. Anak Verhoeven (BEL)
3. Mina Markovic (SLO)
∙ Women’s Speed:
1. Anna Tsganova (RUS)
2. Anouk Jaubert (FRA)
3. Iullia Kaplina (RUS)
∙ Women’s Combined:
1. Elena Krasovskaia (RUS)
2. Claire Buhrfeind (USA)
3. Charlotte Durif (FRA)
The best predictor, of course, of the 2018 Worlds is what has happened in the 2018 World Cup:
∙ Bouldering:
Men: Jernej Kruder (SLO), 442; Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 400; Rei Sugimoto ((JPN), 334.
Women: Miho Nonaka (JPN), 500; Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 495; Fanny Gibert (SUI), 320.
∙ Lead:
Men: Jakob Schubert (AUT), 335; 2. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), 286; Alexander Megos (GER), 230.
Women: Janja Garnbret (SLO), 380; Jessica Piulz, 340; Anak Verhoeven (BEL), 181.
∙ Speed:
Men: Danyil Boldyrev (UKR), 373; Dmitrii Timofeev (US), 353; Bassa Mawem (FRA), 311.
Women: Anouck Jaubert (FRA), 436; Mariia Krasavina (RUS), 341; Iullia Kaplina (RUS), 289.
Look for results here.
