SPORT CLIMBING: She did it! Garnbret completes unbeaten season, wins Vail Bouldering World Cup

Seasonal Bouldering medalists (l-r): Akiyo Noguchi (JPN/silver), Janja Garnbret (SLO/gold), Fanny Gibert (SUI/bronze). (Photo: IFSC/Dan Gajda)

Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret completed her dream season, sweeping all six Bouldering World Cups in 2019 and finishing with a perfect 500 points to take her first World Cup title in the Bouldering discipline.

She’s already won three straight titles in Lead – and could get a fourth this season – and continues as the leading candidate to win the 2020 Tokyo competition in the debut of Sport Climbing.

She was clearly the best in Vail, leading the qualifications and second in the semifinals. She reached four tops in the final, while Japan’s Akiyo Noguchi was the only one to reach three. Swiss Fanny Gibert reached two and finished third. Noguchi and Gibert finished 2-3 in the seasonal series as well.

Japan’s Yoshiyuki Ogata, who won one medal during the season – a bronze – and was otherwise 8-29-9-15 in his other competitions, won the men’s Bouldering as the only one to climb four tops in the final. Countryman Tomoa Narasaki finished second and that was enough to propel him past Adam Ondra (CZE) and claim his second seasonal Bouldering title (also in 2016). Ondra finished second and Ogata’s win vaulted him to third in the final seasonal standings. Summaries:

IFSC World Cup
Vail, Colorado (USA) ~ 7-8 June 2019
(Full results here)

Men/Bouldering: 1. Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), 4T4z~11/9; 2. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 3T4z~5/5; 3. Jongwon Chon (KOR), 3T4z~6/7; 4. Jan Hojer (KOR), 2T4z~4/6; 5. Adam Ondra (CZE), 2T3z~3/4.

Men/Final Bouldering Standings: 1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 340 (best five of six scores are used); 2. Adam Ondra (CZE), 335; 3. Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), 264; 4, Jongwon Chon (KOR), 228; 5. Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 227.

Women/Bouldering: 1. Janja Garnbret (SLO), 4T4z~9/8; 2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 3T4z~5/6; 3. Fanny Gibert (SUI), 2T4z~3/9; 4. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 2T4z~5/5; 5. Luce Duoady (FRA), 1T4z~1/8.

Women/Final Bouldering Standings: 1. Janja Garnbret (SLO), 500; 2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 320; 3. Fanny Gibert (SUI), 308; 4. Futaba Ito (JPN), 206; 5. Jessica Pilz (AUT), 203.