With Sport Climbing now set to be confirmed for the 2024 Olympic Games as well as in Tokyo next year, the focus now turns to who will be the favorite next year.
The 2020 format will be a combined event, and the obvious women’s favorite will be Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret, 20, and she demonstrated why with her second World Cup win in as many weeks in Bouldering, this time in Moscow (RUS).
She reached the same number of tops and zones as former World Cup champ Shauna Coxsey (GBR), but did so in less tries. Garnbret’s edge is that she is excellent in Lead – the World Champion in 2016 – as well as Bouldering.
The men’s competitions in Moscow were dominated by Europeans. The 2014 Worlds silver medalist in Bouldering, Jernej Kruder (SLO) managed to overcome the 2014 gold medalist, Adam Ondra (CZE) for the win, while last year’s Speed silver medalist, Bassa Mawem (FRA), for his third career World Cup victory. Summaries:
IFSC World Cup
Moscow (RUS) ~ 13-14 April 2019
(Full results here)
Men/Bouldering: 1. Jernej Kruder (SLO), 4t4z-8; 2. Adam Ondra (CZE), 3t4z-5; 3. Yoshiyuki Ogata (JPN), 3t3z-6; 4. Anze Peharc (SLO), 2t3z-6; 5. Rei Kawamata (JPN), 1t3z-2.
Men/Speed – Big Final: 1. Bassa Mawem (FRA), 5.730; 2. Vladislav Deulin (RUS), 11.545. Small Final: Aspar Jaelolo (INA), 6.083; 4. Long Cao (CHN), 10.004.
Women/Bouldering: 1. Janja Garnbret (SLO), 4t4z-4; 2. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 4t4z-6; 3. Fanny Gibert (FRA), 4t4z-6; 4. Lucka Rakovec (SLO), 3t4z-3; 5. Jessica Pilz (AUT), 3t4z-9.
Women/Speed – Big Final: 1. YiLing Song (CHN), 7.389; 2. Anouck Jaubert (FRA), 7.682; Small Final: 3. Iullia Kaplina (RUS), 8.233; 4. Anna Tsyganova (RUS), fell.