SPORT CLIMBING: Garnbret storms to win in Lead, Ondra rebounds for Lead title at World Champs

Slovenia's climbing star Janja Garnbret

Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret is leading little doubt at the IFSC World Championships in Hachoji, Japan that she wants to be – and is – the favorite for the inaugural Olympic climbing event in Tokyo next year.

She won the Bouldering crown to extend her perfect season of World Cup wins with a world title. But on Thursday, she crushed the world-class field by leading after every phase and winning with 43+ holds, an amazing four better than runner-up Mia Krampl of Austria. Korea’s Chae-Hyun Seo, who won two World Cups earlier in the year, finished fourth.

Garnbret is not done, as there is more on the schedule:

17 August: Speed
20 August: Combined/Women (Speed/Bouldering/Lead)
21 August: Combined/Men (Speed/Bouldering/Lead)

In the men’s Lead action, Czech star Adam Ondra won his third world title in the last four championships and has now won a medal in the last seven Worlds (3-2-2) dating back to 2009. He managed 34+, one hold more than World Cup leader Alexander Megos (GER) and 2018 World Champion Jakob Schubert (AUT), both at 33+.

There is prize money for the Worlds, for the top six placers in each discipline: € 3,990-2.490-1,445-783-508-375 (€1=$1.12). Summaries so far:

IFSC World Championships
Hachioji (JPN) ~ 11-21 August 2019
(Full results here)

Men

Bouldering: 1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 2t4z ~ 12/20; 2. Jakob Schubert (AUT), 0t3z ~ 0/10; 3. Yannick Flohe (GER), 0t3z ~ 0/13; 4. Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 0t3z ~ 0/18; 5. Keita Dohi (JPN), ot2z ~ 0/9; 6. Adam Ondra (CZE), 0t0z ~ 0/0.

Lead: 1. Ondra (CZE), 34+; 2. Alexander Megos (GER), 33+; 3. Jakob Schubert (AUT), 33+; 4. Narasaki (JPN), 30; 5. Sean McColl (CAN), 30; 6. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), 29+; 7. Kai Harada (JPN), 28+; 8. Hannes Puman (SWE), 27+.

Women

Bouldering: 1. Janja Garnbret (SLO), 3t3z ~ 8/8; 2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 2t2z ~ 4/2; 3. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 2t2z ~ 6/6; 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR), 1t2z ~ 3/4; 5. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 1t2z ~ 5.6; 6. Nanako Kura (JPN), 0t1z ~ 0/1.

Lead: 1. Garnbret (SLO), 43+; 2. Mia Krampl (AUT), 39+; 3. Ai Mori (JPN), 38+; 4. Chae-Hyun Seo (KOR), 38+; 5. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 38+; 6. Jessica Pilz (AUT), 35+; 7. Vita Lukan (SLO), 30+; 8. Julia Chanourdie (FRA), 30+.