Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret is leading little doubt at the IFSC World Championships in Hachoji, Japan that she wants to be – and is – the favorite for the inaugural Olympic climbing event in Tokyo next year.
She won the Bouldering crown to extend her perfect season of World Cup wins with a world title. But on Thursday, she crushed the world-class field by leading after every phase and winning with 43+ holds, an amazing four better than runner-up Mia Krampl of Austria. Korea’s Chae-Hyun Seo, who won two World Cups earlier in the year, finished fourth.
Garnbret is not done, as there is more on the schedule:
● 17 August: Speed
● 20 August: Combined/Women (Speed/Bouldering/Lead)
● 21 August: Combined/Men (Speed/Bouldering/Lead)
In the men’s Lead action, Czech star Adam Ondra won his third world title in the last four championships and has now won a medal in the last seven Worlds (3-2-2) dating back to 2009. He managed 34+, one hold more than World Cup leader Alexander Megos (GER) and 2018 World Champion Jakob Schubert (AUT), both at 33+.
There is prize money for the Worlds, for the top six placers in each discipline: € 3,990-2.490-1,445-783-508-375 (€1=$1.12). Summaries so far:
IFSC World Championships
Hachioji (JPN) ~ 11-21 August 2019
(Full results here)
Men
Bouldering: 1. Tomoa Narasaki (JPN), 2t4z ~ 12/20; 2. Jakob Schubert (AUT), 0t3z ~ 0/10; 3. Yannick Flohe (GER), 0t3z ~ 0/13; 4. Kokoro Fujii (JPN), 0t3z ~ 0/18; 5. Keita Dohi (JPN), ot2z ~ 0/9; 6. Adam Ondra (CZE), 0t0z ~ 0/0.
Lead: 1. Ondra (CZE), 34+; 2. Alexander Megos (GER), 33+; 3. Jakob Schubert (AUT), 33+; 4. Narasaki (JPN), 30; 5. Sean McColl (CAN), 30; 6. Stefano Ghisolfi (ITA), 29+; 7. Kai Harada (JPN), 28+; 8. Hannes Puman (SWE), 27+.
Women
Bouldering: 1. Janja Garnbret (SLO), 3t3z ~ 8/8; 2. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 2t2z ~ 4/2; 3. Shauna Coxsey (GBR), 2t2z ~ 6/6; 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova (UKR), 1t2z ~ 3/4; 5. Miho Nonaka (JPN), 1t2z ~ 5.6; 6. Nanako Kura (JPN), 0t1z ~ 0/1.
Lead: 1. Garnbret (SLO), 43+; 2. Mia Krampl (AUT), 39+; 3. Ai Mori (JPN), 38+; 4. Chae-Hyun Seo (KOR), 38+; 5. Akiyo Noguchi (JPN), 38+; 6. Jessica Pilz (AUT), 35+; 7. Vita Lukan (SLO), 30+; 8. Julia Chanourdie (FRA), 30+.
